Nicaragua, Esteli and Somoto

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We started the day with breakfast at the hostel and then shared a taxi to the minibus station with the older lady Kaley we had mat the previous night. At the station we parted ways as we were heading north towards Honduras and she was heading south. Our trip was a short jaunt to the small cowboy frontier town of Esteli. We checked into Hostel Luna which was a hostel and accompanying cafe that supported local development projects with its earnings. We then had lunch at the cafe and I decided to finally get my hair cut while Shannon scooped out a place for a massage. We later reconvened and did a walking tour of the town, booked a tour for the next day, had some supper and then headed back to the hostel where we read for a couple of hours and went to bed really early.

Somoto
Just down the road from Esteli is the frontier town of Somoto but we were not going there for the town we were going there to “tour” the Somoto Canyon which involves a hike up toward the head waters, a partial walk down the river bank, swimming/floating the river the rest of the way while looking up at the jetting canyon walls on either side of you, then a small boat ride and finally a short walk back to the house we started at. So wouldn’t you know it but the only other gringos on the bus to Somoto to also attend the canyon tour were the Bostonites Christy and Chris we had met in Leon. This tour was a little different than most as there is a family that runs the tours. We ended up having lunch, supper and staying at their small ranch house. The walk was a hot dusty trip up the road, through cow fields and up a hill until we finally hit the river. We started walking along the bank of the river which was made of huge rounded rocks. We walked until the river started to pool, at which point our guide pulled out his blow up dingy. We piled our dry clothes etc. in the dingy and then jumped into the cool water with our life jackets, which helped us float along. The greatest part of this tour was the perspective you had floating down the river as the canyon walls started to rise up to 30 meters or more and the river narrowed to 8 meters across at times. The canyon funnelled us through thin river straights with shear rock walls going up to the heavens. Despite the heat of the day, the coolness of the water sucked the heat right out of us. We later laid on the hot rocks at the end to warm up. We walked back to the family residence, had some beers and a typical Nicaragua supper of tortillas, rice, beans, and chicken in a tomato salsa (steamed vegetables for Shannon). We drank some more beers, talked with the family as best we could and then the four gringos played some cards and headed off to bed as we all had an early day of travel the next morning in opposite directions.

Nicaragua, Leon - Beautiful Churches Everywhere

From what we had saw and heard about Managua, the city did not really feel like a place we should remain and so we walked to the collectivo station (shared minivan taxi) and caught one to the city of Leon. We arrived early and grabbed a cab to Hostel Lazybones which appeared to be a scaled down version of the Hostel Oasis which was the fancy hostel we had stayed at in Granada with Chris and Heather. After unpacking we found out that the this hostel has also been the previous owner of Oasis so it made sense that everything looked very similar with its hammocks, wall murals, and pool. Every day in Leon was extremely hot and so we spent every morning hanging around the pool. Our first afternoon was spent walking around the streets viewing all the gorgeous old churches and colonial buildings. Leon really grew on us as it is very authentic, full of history, with at least 10 beautiful churches within a stone throw, a cobble stone city square, a good sense of safety and friendly people.

The next day we signed up for a kayaking trip through the Las Penitas estuary to see the mangroves and hopefully an alligator. That day we headed out in the afternoon with our tour guide and a young English girl. The mangroves were so peaceful and quiet. Our guide told us stories about old Leon and the myth of a priest who was beheaded by the Spaniards and who was believed to still roam the area of old Leon. He also told us about the importance of the mangrove, as it filters the water and is home to many of the animals in the area. As well, he explained that last year there was a bad storm that blew over and destroyed a lot of the mangroves and that the University has since been working hard to replant the mangroves (red and black mangrove trees are in the area). During our kayak trip we paddled the estuary which came from the main land and went around either side of a very close island. After an hour of paddling we stopped on the island so that our guide could teach us about turtles and the University’s turtle breading station which was on the island. We were told that the breading season was over, but that turtles come to shore during the breeding season along beaches and lay their eggs in the sand. Since turtle populations have been dwindling due to over fishing, destruction of habitat and pollution, volunteers and biologists gather the eggs and move them to a controlled setting where they can be watched 24-hours a day along the same beach, and hatch safely. The baby turtles are released into the wild either at dawn or dusk when there are limited predators to enhance their survival. We were very fortunate that day as the season was not over and a batch of turtles had been born that morning. We were able to hold the baby turtles, take pictures and were invited back to release them into the ocean at dusk. We continued our kayak tour up the estuary in search of alligators without avail but were able to see numerous species of birds that frequent the mangrove forest. We returned to the turtle hatchery before dusk, had a swim in the warm Pacific Ocean, played in the waves and then watched the turtles being released into the water. It was amazing to see them instinctively head towards the ocean. We did not leave until every last baby turtle was gobbled up by the surf.

The next day we were going to head out but our lazybones and the extreme heat after breakfast slowed us down to a halt. We spent the morning swimming, laying around the pool and reading our books, as it was too nice to travel. We also briefly met a couple Christy and Chris from the Boston area. They owned an organic farm back home and were travelling for two months during the winter season. In the afternoon we had finally gotten ready for a walk around the city at which time we also found a great buffet-style lunch comida for $2 per person. We toured the local market and then went for a roof-top tour of the Cathedral at Park Central for $2 per person. It was worth every penny to check out the roof as there were more than 20 domes of various sizes, three steeples with at least 15 bells and a great view of the entire city out to the surrounding volcanoes. We were both surprised but super excited that they let people self tour this amazing spot. We spent the rest of the day soaking in sweat but went to an internet cafe with our computer to call Todd for his birthday which is Scott’s brother. It was awesome to hear his voice and it made us excited for our trip to see Todd and his girlfriend Kim for a week starting March 7th at the end of this adventure. We headed back to Lazybones hostel and right away jumped in the pool. While in the pool we ended up talking to an artist from Burlington by the name of Kaley Archer. She explained that her and her late husband had travelled all around the world and that since his sudden death she had continued to travel and was on her way to travel and volunteer throughout Central America. Due to the heat of the day and after deciding to move on to another destination early in the morning we hit the sack.

All Inclusive to Managua

The next day we were allowed to stick around the resort until 3 PM so we stored our bags and hit the pool after breakfast and chilled there all day, had some lunch and then jumped in a very expensive resort-approved safe taxi for way too much money to the capital of Nicaragua, Managua. After driving around trying to find the hostel we were looking for we decided that once we got there we would just hang out around the pool, drink some beers, and share some travel experiences with fellow backpackers.

That night we went to El Tercer Ojo which is the sister restaurant to the one we went to Granada with a couple from Australia. The next morning we went out for some breakfast that for some reason took 1 hour to prepare and then had to race back to the hostel where Chris found out that their flight was bounced forward an hour and then frantically had a cab called and we said our goodbyes to Chris and Heather and they were off. It was really awesome having not only one set of friends but two sets visit us abroad... hint hint to the rest of you!!!

Masachapa - Montelimar All Inclusive

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Picture 1 - Lago Apollo. To the right is the look at we had been at the previous day

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Picture 2 - The meal at the vacant restaurant on the beach.

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Picture 3- The vacant resort on the beach. So nice but completley empty.

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Picture 4 - Our Cyclo Taxi to the all inclusive resort Barcelo

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Picture 5 - Enjoying our first and only night at an all inclusive

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Picture 6 - Pool side

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Picture 7- Drinks at the Casino

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Picture 8 - Chris won big!

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Picture 9 - Beach side

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Picture 10 - Minutes before having to pack it up and leave the pool side.

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The next day we grabbed an early taxi south to the coast and during the drive the taxi allowed us to stop at Lago de Apoyo, which is a very large crater lake (an old volcano that has collapsed in on itself and filled with crystal clear blue water. This was incredible to see and to the right of the lake in the distance we could see the other volcano we were at the previous day and the lookout we had viewed out at the lake from. The taxi ride was a little more than two hours, which carried us up a mountain side and then down down down to Masachapa-Pochomil which are beach towns that were deserted by all people for some strange reason except for the staff working at the various empty restaurants?? We had some beers and lunch overlooking the Pacific Ocean. With only two hotels to stay at and at prices a little above our price range Shannon and Chris ventured off to check out other places and returned back to report that there was one really cool resort looking place that they saw, which was deserted except for one cleaning lady who said we could stay there for $7 a person. Shannon and Chris considered it as it really was a nice place, but without anyone around, no food, etc it didn't seem safe and so they returned empty handed. We then decided to check out the all-inclusive a few kilometers away, which was mentioned by the older couple we met in San Juan Del Sur. So we decided to take a tricycle or cyclo taxis as they assured us that there were no taxi's in this town only these cyclo taxis. They peddled us down the road (a few kilometers) for $5 a couple to check out the all-inclusive resort Barcelo down the beach in an area called Montelimar. For some reason we expected the rate to be cheap since there didn't seem to be anyone around in this area and since the Cyclo Taxi told us that all the travelers had left for San Juan Del Sur. After arriving to the all inclusive and after much debate and trying to wheel and deal we ended up forking over $75 a person for 24 hours of all inclusiveness (3 meals, all the drinks we wanted, a cabana with cable and hot shower, pools, and beaches). We spent the rest of the day drinking by the pool and then hit the supper buffet where we were surrounded by Nica’s and Quebecer’s. After supper we went to the on-site casino and drank the night away playing 1 Cordora slots which was a lot of fun as there are 21 Cords in a Dollar so when you hit the pay out button there would a pile of coins spitting out of the machine. Chris won 600 cords and it sounded like he won a million dollars with all the coins dropping out, but in actuality it was only about $30. Exciting none the less.

Granada Part 2, Volcan Mombacho

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Picture 1 - Hostel Oasis - Best hostel ever

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Picture 2- Army truck to take us up Volcanoe Mombacho

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Picture 3- Facts on Mombacho

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Picture 4- Hiking through the crack at the top of the Volcanoe

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Picture 5- View from the top of the Volcanoe crater.

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Picture 6- Display of the Volcanoe and craters at the top. We did the two craters at the top left.

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Picture 7- Yes I am ziplining up side down

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Picture 8 - Scott doing the superman

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Picture 9- Crazy bug at the bottom of the zipline

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The next day we had organized a tour to venture to a volcano. We got a taxi to the National Reserve and jumped in the back of an old Mercedes Army truck up to near the top of Volcan Mombacho at 1100 meters above sea level. We then walked around the two craters at the top to see the view and learn about the area. As well we learned the difference between rain forest and cloud forest where the later is always in the clouds and always is at 100% humidity. We walked through a crack in the volcano only a meter or so apart at times and had pictures taken with our legs supported on either wall high in the air. There were also fumer holes that are holes in the ground from where the volcano releases its heat/steam. Then there was a clearing that had an amazing view over Granada and Lago Nicaragua with a wind that almost was pushing us over. After getting the army truck back down the volcano and went zip lining with 17 lines zipping through the forest. This zip line was different than the one in Costa Rica where they allowed you to do Superman, Up Side Down, and in Tandem. There was a lady and her mother from Alberta and mother was in her 60’s was nervous at first but by the end completed both the Superman and Upside Down zip line. The last zip line they allowed Scott and me to go down together with me on his lap. That night another fancy meal at El Tercer Ojo which is a Asian fusion restaurant with really great food and lots of it and of course lots of wine.

Granada Part 1

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Picture 1 - a Church in Granada

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Picture 2- View of Granada from the bell tower of the Cathedral

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Picture 3 - Inside the Cathedral

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Another cab ride back to the ferry and then from San Jorge to Granada and arrived by 12. We hit the ATM in Granada and headed to Hostel Oasis. This was hands down the best hostel Scott and I had been to yet. It had a pool, tons of hammocks, a great cheap breakfast, high ceilings, and very neat murals everywhere. We settled in and started a walking tour of the city to see the monuments and hit up a good restaurant where we sat in the middle of pedestrian only street and had a great lunch with cold beers under an umbrella while peddlers tried to hock their goods. We checked out all the major churches in the city and hung out in the Parque Central which is an area about a city block large full of vendors and people just hanging out. Right on the Parque Central is the main cathedral which we toured and climbed the steeple right to the top that gave a bird’s view of the city and surrounding volcanoes. The heat was getting to us so we toured back to the hostel had some free coffee and cooled off in the pool, chilled out and then got ready to go out for fancy dinner out on the town.

That night we went to El Zaguan a relatively fancy restaurant with mariachis playing and the ever presence of the open wood burning BBQ grill. We all ordered too much food and then more food and bottles of red wine and talked the evening away, it was a stumbly walk back to the hostel and a great night sleep.

Isla de Ometepe Part 2

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Picture 1 - Our Hike up Maderas to the look out

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Picture 2 - The view from Maderas look out

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Picture 3 - We needed a break after at Hostel El Encante

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Picture 4 - Our Bike Ride to Ojo de Agua - Bike trouble Chris to the rescue

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Picture 5 - Hostel El Encante's Restaurant view

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Picture 6 - Fresh Spring Water treat - Ojo de Agua

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The next morning we took cab to the other side of the island to the small village of Santa Domingo to El Encanto Hostel that is situated on the flank of Volcano Maderas. Within minutes of checking into our rooms the owner had arranged for us a guided hike up to the lookout on Volcan Maderas overlooking Volcan Concepcion. Along the hour and half hike we saw petroglyphs, crazy chirpy large blue birds with mow hawks, a monkey, walked through farmer fields, forests and then the incline up to the lookout which was an awesome view over the island and over the lake and of course a great view of the Volcano. The hike was nicely downhill the way back to the hostel which was good especially for Heather who was punched after the accent.

We had lunch and then took bikes on a ride on the island that almost ended in disaster along the bumpy dusty road as my rear gear shift blew apart but luckily Chris the bike mechanic and our key to the hostel fixed the bolt that came out. Thank goodness the next bit of road was paved. We biked for about half an hour to Ojo de Agua which is just what we needed after a long day of hiking and biking. It is a freshwater natural pool with concrete walls, stone and sand ground filled with natural spring water in the forest and it was very cool and nice spot for some fancy drinks poolside along with a taste of homemade tequila that tickled the throat violently. We swam and read our books it was very refreshing. We saw parrots in the trees and one even flew end to end over the pool. After an hour and a half we were back on the bikes to make it back to the hostel. We showered up caught the sunset and headed down for supper. The owner of the hostel and restaurant had lived 9 years in Canada and 5 other places in the world. The food at the restaurant was awesome and he had the best view from his restaurant, hostel, banana farm. That night we ate good food, had a few drinks, played a game called pigs and called it an early night again as we had to be up early the next day to take an hour taxi to catch the ferry.